Big Wave Surfing!
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Big wave surfing is a discipline in surfing where riders paddle into waves which are at least 20 feet high, on surf boards known as guns or rhino chasers. The bigger the wave, the faster it travels, and the bigger the surf board needed to catch it. A larger board allows a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits their maneuverability. This discipline in surfing should not be confused with a cross-over sport known as tow-in surfing. While many riders participate
in both sports, they remain very distinct activities. In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 feet below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. They may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface for a breath of air before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20-50 feet can be strong enough to rupture one's eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or even the floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death. One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held down by two or more consecutive waves without the chance to reach the 
surface for air. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult. Despite these hazards, very few big-wave surfers have ever died in the practice of the sport, with the notable exception of Mark Foo, who died surfing Mavericks. I really admire these guys! I would never dare a thing like that cause I'm not a good swimmer enough to go out and play with my life... Still it's a sport that brings a lot of spectacular images!
You want to see the real thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2vkwy2vdP4
Song of the day is: "Surfer boy" by Diana Ross & The Supremes:
http://download.yousendit.com/4C8C2B4C181BA5C8
Clip of the day is: "Surfer boy" by Diana Ross & The Supremes from the movie "Beach ball:
"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOL7YJfOvHM
.
Big wave surfing is a discipline in surfing where riders paddle into waves which are at least 20 feet high, on surf boards known as guns or rhino chasers. The bigger the wave, the faster it travels, and the bigger the surf board needed to catch it. A larger board allows a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits their maneuverability. This discipline in surfing should not be confused with a cross-over sport known as tow-in surfing. While many riders participate
in both sports, they remain very distinct activities. In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 feet below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. They may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface for a breath of air before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20-50 feet can be strong enough to rupture one's eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or even the floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death. One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held down by two or more consecutive waves without the chance to reach the surface for air. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult. Despite these hazards, very few big-wave surfers have ever died in the practice of the sport, with the notable exception of Mark Foo, who died surfing Mavericks. I really admire these guys! I would never dare a thing like that cause I'm not a good swimmer enough to go out and play with my life... Still it's a sport that brings a lot of spectacular images!You want to see the real thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2vkwy2vdP4
Song of the day is: "Surfer boy" by Diana Ross & The Supremes:
http://download.yousendit.com/4C8C2B4C181BA5C8
Clip of the day is: "Surfer boy" by Diana Ross & The Supremes from the movie "Beach ball:
"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOL7YJfOvHM
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posted by Patrick at Saturday, November 18, 2006
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